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Later one of them inducts him into the ancient rite of creating gâteau à la broche, a “tall, conical, hearth-baked confection” made by pouring a rich hazelnut batter in layers into a mold that revolves around a spit.

At the Rodez farmers’ market, a visitor finds “gateau a la broche” — cake on a stick — sliced horizontally and baked in layers that look like rings on a tree.

“Becassine à la Broche,” he murmured.

Baron de Pauillac à la Broche.

Faisans de Bohême à la broche.