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“I’ll roast or boil a whole beetroot, slice it into thick slices, then chargrill it and that’s my burger – served with garlic cream cheese and rocket.”

They also have the advantage of being robust enough to hold their shape: chargrill wedges and pair with slices of salty speck or pork belly, spoons of creamy cheese or a hard herb such as rosemary.

Heat a griddle pan to very high, then chargrill on each side until they beginning to blacken and soften.

Preheat chargrill or broiler to medium heat.

Two burgers, each an inch thick; instead of a bun, two sugar doughnuts with the authentic stripes of the chargrill; bacon that looked and tasted like a vial of synthetic bacon-smell had been put through a 3D printer; melted cheese; a relish that must have been conceived on some kind of chilli-heat spectrum but had been deadened by more sugar.