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An old standby: Guigal is a celebrated producer in the Rhone Valley, and its white cotes du rhone is reliably seductive, flowery and rich.

In New York, the cote de porc a la “shake & bake” at the new Bistro Pierre Lapin weighs in at about a pound of refined nostalgia.

The chimney pots on the roofs...and on some, the shadowing looming of pigeon cotes...sometimes, faintly heard, the sleepy cooing of pigeons...the twin spires of the Church, remotely brooding over the dark tenements ….

On the exterior, about the only indication of any religious function was a small bell cote at the parapet.

She appeared overhead, prepared to take another swipe at the cote.