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The vegetable was bronzed, the cheese melted and browned, perfect curlicues of crisped cheese enveloping each strand of roasted fennel.

The Helicteres isora, the jacket’s namesake, is a vibrant plant from northern Oceania whose leaves dry in tawny-green curlicues, like nature’s fractals.

There’s dark woodwork, octagonal pillars, curlicues of ironwork in the old-fashioned windows, carved details of garlands and flowers and urns.

Painted cream and pink, glass windows were piped with ribbons of gold and curlicues of crimson.

Concrete pillars with ornamental curlicues grace the interior.