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I considered the monkfish, the mackerel, the cockles.

For seafood such as octopus, monkfish and lobster or for meat, such as lamb or steak.

Soon, the table was replete with steamer baskets of sticky rice wrapped in lotus leaves, golden-brown barbecue pork dumplings, half a crispy duck and delicate monkfish fritters.

Then come heartier dishes like liver and onions, which uses sake-cured monkfish liver instead of the usual beef.

The fish sold through Fishadelphia includes well-known species like tuna or scallops and what Yi calls underutilized: species like dragon fish, dogfish, monkfish, skate and when those aren't available, clams and oysters.