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The property, which he often called an "animal kingdom" is named after him - Mutsugoro in Japanese means mudfish.

Limvatana, 59, grew up in a Hainanese Thai family in Uttaradit in north-central Thailand, where her family operated a shophouse specializing in dishes such as fried mudfish in curry sauce and sauteed stingrays with ginger and wood ear mushrooms.

Decorated with symbols of mudfish, an amphibious creature that suggested the king’s dominion over both land and water, and Portuguese faces, alluding to the trading networks that gave him his economic might, the bracelet was “a fantastic piece about power and cosmopolitanism in a global world back in the 16th and 17th centuries,” Ms. Holcomb said.

Its ingredients are the leaf of the cocoyam plant; dried mudfish, tilapia or other river fish; mushrooms; snails; onions; ginger; garlic; and sometimes grasscutter, the cane rat, which my mother says “adds gamy flavor for those who like it.”

Sam’s menu skews to the spring rolls and noodles that Americans favor, but Lee susses out a profoundly unadapted mudfish sauce that, although it makes him gag, earns the cook’s trust.