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At Parque de los Hippies, Angela Novoa Molina sells the fresh fruit concoction called salpicón, a family business she inherited from her father.

In the middle of three-lane Carrera 50, in the city’s working-class western neighborhoods, Jorge Gonzalez sat in a wheelchair, drinking a salpicón.

Back then, I had a craving for Salpicon — a meat salad — but I did not possess the skills to make it, so I reached out to my grandmother.

Also on the menu are churrasco steak, salpicon rillettes made with shredded short rib, and black clams poached in coconut milk.

Once it finally arrived, so did our sopes, and our ling cod salpicón, and our silky trout tostadas, and our sweet potato with bone marrow, and salsa negra.