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"In a funny way, I would always call him 'schatzi', which means sweetheart, and so when people were in the elevator and he started picking up German, everybody was surprised," Becker recalls.

Schatzi imports the Eins-Zwei-Zero series of alcohol-free wines from Leitz, an excellent and innovative riesling specialist in the Rheingau region of Germany.

“It’s the fastest growing category in our portfolio right now,” said Kevin Pike, a proprietor of Schatzi Wines, a small importer and distributor in Milan, N.Y.

When Nigel Mallender arrived in Ischgl on the afternoon of Tuesday 10 March, he headed straight to Schatzi bar.

“It felt like business as usual,” says Mallender, who spent about five hours at Schatzi.