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And Miyaizumi Meijo’s flagship brand Sharaku has become one of Japan’s most famous.

Miyamori launched Sharaku, known for its crispness, well-balanced acidity and sweetness, in 2008.

Now that his Sharaku has matched Hiroki in popularity, the two brewers drink together and tease each other about reviews of their alcohol.

Kenji Hiroki says of Miyamori, “you can brew better sake if you have a rival you can respect. Without Sharaku, Hiroki would not be as good as it is.”

Strolling courtesans, Mount Fuji and a popular actor crossing his eyes appear in woodblock prints by leading 18th- and 19th-century artists — Kitagawa Utamaro, Toshusai Sharaku and Katsushika Hokusai.