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Republic of Cider offers some quirky takes including ciders with winter melon and another version brewed with green hatch chilies.

She did: The French Culinary Institute graduate hadn’t cooked with preserved lemons or winter melon before recipe testing for the book, and she had never eaten borscht.

Whatever stomach space was left was devoted to an unending parade of toasted watermelon seeds, crystallized sugary pieces of winter melon, and peanuts.

Other seasonal flavors include Korean barley tea, chestnut, winter melon and this past month’s pick: Black Milk soft-serve.

The side of soup is milder, with daikon rather than winter melon and a rubble at the bottom: corn, added at the last minute so it remains sunny-sweet.